sewing

The eventual bull’s eye: Burda Style Dart Dress.

18 August, 2012

This has certainly turned into a sewing blog of late, and shall continue to be one for at least this post because I want to show you the fruits of my labour on the Burda Style Dart Dress. Firstly I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Kate for sharing this pattern with me, mwah mwah! Secondly, this is a pretty good pattern but I strongly advise sewing a muslin first because I had to grade the largest size up four sizes to EU 60 instead of my regular 56. I probably could have done with the 58 but more ease in garments is a bunch comfier!

Instagram collage of pattern pieces undergoing grading and the dart dress made in polka dot fabric.


Burda made this in a polka dot fabric which is so cute, but I couldn’t find anything besides rough-as digital print cotton at Lincraft (yeh I bought some what of it?) and I’d rather have something a bit nicer with more weight. The original pattern has 18 darts, so yes it is aptly named, but I eliminated the darts at the hem because on my muslins they restricted my ability to walk comfortably. That’s the beauty of a muslin too, you can edit the pattern to suit your body as well as the way you move.

I made two dresses from this pattern, the first was a wearable muslin made out of some brown gabardine I had metres and metres and metres of, and the second was made out of purple ponte. The ponte is super soft and easy to wear, probably not the best choice for the structure in the design but whatever!

Full length photo of me (fat, white, with short blonde hair) wearing a brown knee-length dress with a V neckline, cap sleeves and darts at the shoulder, neck and waist.


The back view of my brown dress, with darts on upper bodice and top of skirt meeting at the waist.


The purple dress, staring Miffy.


The back view of the purple dress. Miffy glares at the camera.


Miffy jumping up on my knees in a blur of cute.


I have a feeling this pattern will be used quite a bit because the darts can be sewn the other way around for a less ~darty~ dress, and the neckline darts can be taken out with a bit of nifty pattern altering. I’m very glad I ended up making three muslins (including the brown dress) in order to figure out the right size for me, because it’s a good basic pattern with scope for flexibility and adaptation.

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  • STUNNING.
    You look amazing; even better because you MADE that dress.

  • thefullnilson

    That dress is sweet, and fits you perfectly! Frustration with the fit of off-the-rack garments has driven me to try to hone my sewing skills, too. I’m starting with something simple in my skill range, but I’d like to take a class to sew a tailored pencil skirt!

  • Hanne

    I continue to be amazed with your sewing skills. As I sew a bit myself I am very pleased with the latest sewing craze here on your blog. I started practicing sewing when I was 12 or so, but ever since then (9 years or so) it’s been on and off untill I bought a sewing machine in March. It’s pretty much the greatest thing I ever bought! I’ve been buying some patterns of late, but I was wondering; do you have any recommendation on where I could learn about altering patterns? Books, sites etc. My conclusion after trying to make a dress is something along the lines of “this pattern is made for a deformed gray alien slug”.

  • Janet

    What great dresses! That pattern works really well for you and has me thinking a bit differently about a dress I am planning. I like both but particularly like the purple one – it looks like the little bit of stretch in the ponte makes it even more fitted while keeping the structure and ease.

  • JesTheMilitantBaker

    SEXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXY! You are so goddamn talented. Lord.

  • Craftastrophies

    Hooray! I’m thinking of muslining this dress soon, for myself. I have a couple of dresses I want to get right, and use as a jumping off point. This one could be nicely versatile! Looks great, I especially love the purple one. Because duh, it’s purple!

  • Keena

    Gorgeous dress! It looks like it would be good for business/work wear and casual, depending on the fabric print and accessories. I’m jealous of your sewing skills, wish I had even a little bit of ability and patience with sewing! :)